Poor Service At Franchia Compromises the Experience of the Delicious Food

When we arrived at Franchia, we were barely acknowledged before the unsmiling "host" sprinted up the steps ahead of us, tossed our menus onto a table, and passed us in the opposite direction as we were still making our way behind him.  It was not a good way to start off a meal we had been looking forward to, after having had such a divine experience at Hangawi.  In addition to the nonexistent welcome, he had inexplicably stuffed us in the farthest corner of the third tier of seating next to a large group, even though the ground level was empty and there was still a table or two available on the busy, second level.  Not wanting to take it too personally or start off on the wrong foot, we decided to stay put.

But, after fifteen minutes passed without anyone returning to take our drink order, we decided to relocate ourselves.  As we made our way down the stairs with our menus, the "host" peered up at us from the first level, seemingly disgusted that we hadn't stayed where he had hidden put us.  I told him that we preferred to sit on the first level and he gestured that we should seat ourselves...beside another table that had come in since we had and were already enjoying tea! 

Lucky for us, Mr. Smiley the host turned out to be our server as well.  He eventually came over and was completely disinterested in engaging in a conversation about the available beverages, even though both water cups he had placed on the table were immediately deemed off-limits because they contained some kind of unidentifiable crusted and/or floating matter that he should have noticed.  So, we placed the water aside, chose two cocktails at random, and began to peruse the food menu. 

Our drinks arrived and they were both served beautifully with fresh orchid garnish.  The Pink Moon was made of Shissandra, lime, and Soju; the Kamasutra contained pomegranete tea, grapefruite juice and Soju.  Both were pleasant, but extremely mild: neither tasted alcoholic.  We think Mr. Smiley, who also prepared the cocktails, merely showed the Soju to the cocktail glass rather than having properly introduced them.  I don't care for strong drinks, but these may as well have been juice.

For no apparent reason, Mr. Smiley decided to serve our appetizers and salads all at once.  This made the table quite cramped and prevented us from focusing separately on each delicious course.  Despite this easily avoidable faux pas, everything was exquisite.

The combination pancakes (corn, scallion, and kimchi) were slightly different than the same flavors at Hangawi and the dipping sauce was considerably more flavorful: filled with leeks and sesame seeds.  All were fantastic, but the kimchi variety was our favorite as it had a discernable spice.  The scallion was also yummy: bursting with scallions, and the corn a nice and mild contrast.  We agreed that it would be difficult to pick just one flavor to order.


I decided to try the steamed buns with crispy duck because whenever my Dad orders real duck (scowl) I'm always intrigued by those little white pancakes.  Well, I am happy to report that they are delicious.  I don't know what duck tastes like, but the fact of the matter is that they could have called what was in that bun faux anything and it still would have been delicious: crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, and accented with crisp veggies and a delicious plum sauce: highly recommended.

The asparagus and avocado salad consisted of crisp romaine generously topped with carrot ginger dressing.  It was chock full of fresh avocado and the asparagus was nice and crispy, but I did wonder what they do with all of the heads?

One of my favorite things at Hangawi and Franchia is the complimentary kimchi. I have always been served one complete, dense roll of each variety-- standard and spicy, on separate plates. Imagine my surprise when, on this visit, we were served a smidgen of each nestled next to each other on the same tiny plate: I estimate that it about 75% less than the usual amount.  I was so flabbergasted that I didn't even remember to take a picture.

For dinner we skipped the delicious crispy mushrooms in sweet and sour sauce and instead tried the spicy Franchia noodles.  Although the garnish contained a couple of dried chilies to put you in the mindset, this dish was not at all spicy, but delicious.  Tasting like a non-oily Lo Mein, the noodles were delicately flavored and mixed with assorted vegetables, bean sprouts, and crunchy peanuts.


We also chose the avocado bibimbap, which I take full responsibility for having mistaken for Hangawi's avocado stone bowl rice.  The bibimbap was good, but lukewarm (is that how it's supposed to be?).  We had both been looking forward to the steaming hot, crispy rice kernals of the stone bowl rice, but the contents of the bibimbap were neither hot nor crispy.  However, it was filled with fresh produce and the tofu was prepared the way I like it to be in cold dishes: firm and dense.  Had I not been expecting something else I surely would have no complaints about this dish.  Hearty and definitely a good choice in the warmer weather, but give me the crispy rice stone bowl any day!

Because the experience with our server never improved we decided to forego dessert.  And, just as there had been no welcome, there was also no thank you.  So, while the food was outstanding, we both agreed that we would sooner return to the slightly higher prices and nicer atmosphere of Hangawi rather than risk the severely unfriendly service we experienced at Franchia, which spoiled our otherwise phenomenal meal.  Luckily, as we exited another server thanked us: allowing us to leave on a good note.

Hangawi: Delicious as Ever

I hadn't been to Hangawi in years, and I convinced myself that I was going to be adventurous and not order my old favorite: the bean curd with spicy kimchi. I didn't, but for the record- it is SO GOOD: exquisite spicy kimchi and tofu that practically melts in your mouth.

Hangawi was exactly as I remember it: serene and other-worldly. They were even out of the sweet corn and spinach porridge which I've never had the opportunity to taste...because they are mysteriously always out of it. Not merely deja-vu, I suspect it doesn't actually exist and they simply haven't gotten around to reprinting the menus. No matter, instead I enjoyed the smooth, sweet, pudding-like pumpkin porridge.

I did manage to prevent myself from ordering my "regular" and I was not disappointed. The food was possibly more fantastic than I remembered. The combo pancakes were each unique and divine. One leek, one kabocha pumpkin, and one spicy kimchi mushroom: they were like Asian-inspired latkes and it was hard to pick a favorite. The vegetable dumplings were huge and delicious, although we were surprised that both appetizers came with the same dipping sauce.

The vegetarian stone bowl rice came out sizzling and was finalized tableside with chili paste. The cauldron in which it is served keeps the contents practically cooking while you eat, and the crispy rice kernels around the edges and bottom are the best. I should note that it was also served with a generous bowl of the best miso soup I've ever had. Next time I'd like to try the avocado stone bowl, but I will be sure to add the chili paste!

The unexpected standout of the day was the last minute choice of the crispy mushrooms in sweet and sour sauce (pictured). Besides the simple fact that every aspect of the generous portion was just completely yummy, it was also (oddly) the closest thing I've had to Asian sesame chicken. Don't get me wrong; it didn't taste chickeny and they certainly aren't trying to duplicate the meat dish. The melange of flavors and textures simply evoked sesame chicken to me, so I think it would make a great dish for omnis.

As always, best (and complimentary) kimchi ever: especially the spicy.

I've always had very pleasant service at Hangawi, but I've heard a lot of people complain that they don't fill your water glass often enough (!). To those people I suggest that you solve that problem by treating yourself to the takara plum wine if you like sweet and the soju mojito if you like tart. The wine smells and tastes fruity and delicious; the mojito is crisp and refreshing.

We were so full that we chose not to stuff ourselves with dessert just for the sake of dessert. Ok, my companion made the call and I begrudgingly complied, already plotting to pick up some kettle corn from the Bryant Park Holiday Market (which I did). But from past experience I would recommend the mochi (make sure they have the ones rolled in coconut because otherwise they will look naked), cheesecake, blueberry coconut cake, or ice cream.

Yes, Hangawi is a little pricey. But, you are paying for an entire experience and it's worth it.

(My one complaint is that when we entered, a rather curt & abrupt woman began repeatedly yelling directions at us in regard to where we should put our shoes. Note to this high-strung woman: We see the cubbies (it's not rocket science); you're ruining the atmosphere and practically chasing people away!)