Showing posts with label Candle Cafe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Candle Cafe. Show all posts

Friday, October 22, 2010

Candle Cafe is Just Not My Style

I visited Candle Cafe once years ago as a new vegan; it was probably the very first vegan restaurant I'd ever encountered.  I recall that it gave off the expected crunchy granola vibe and I was wholly unfamiliar with many of the menu ingredients.  Besides seitan and tempeh I had never even heard of edamame; watching someone eat it for the first time was quite bizarre!  Trepidatiously, I decided to be safe and just go for dessert: chocolate layer cake.  I remember thinking from the first bite that it was exactly what I was afraid of; it didn't taste "right".  My fears had been confirmed: being a vegan was not going to be tasty.

Fast forward many years and a bazillion sweets later; there are plenty of vegan sweets to choose from and most of them are divine.  I haven't been back to Candle since that fateful day, but I became a huge fan of Candle 79 shortly after they opened-- dessert included.  After dining at C79 recently within a limited time frame (we didn't have a reservation), I thought to give the original Candle another try for dessert.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the interior didn't strike me as vegan hippie as it had the first time; we've probably both grown in that respect: me in my tolerance and they in their decor.  The hostess was pleasant, conscientous and extremely efficient.  By his ease and familiarity with the patrons, it was obvious that the manager ran a friendly and well-oiled machine.  Our waitress, however, seemed the anomaly.  I quickly ordered a hot chocolate, because C79 has some of the best around; VM went with her standard black coffee.  The coffee was lukewarm at best; I've never met a waitress who couldn't tell that the cup she was serving did not contain a hot beverage.  And, while my hot chocolate was fine, it certainly wasn't the wondrous version that I have become a fan of at C79. 

Because I'm not a fan of fruit (or vegetable) desserts, am spoiled by Lula's ice cream, and did not want to revisit the chocolate cake incident of so long ago, I have issues, choosing a dessert was no easy feat.  I decided on the chocolate chip pecan cookie and the vanilla cheesecake.  Yes, two; mind your business this was research.  VM chose the chocolate macadamia cookie.

Although visibly filled with chips, the chocolate chip pecan cookie wasn't nearly sweet enough
 for my taste.  Also, the whole pecans didn't bode well with me; I like nuts in cookies to be bits and prefer them toasted before becoming a cookie ingredient; these were neither.  As a more normal person someone who appreciates dessert nuttiness and isn't as much of a sweet fanatic as me, VM enjoyed this cookie, but agreed it was nothing that she'd go out of her way to have again.


Despite looking like the less appetizing of the two, VM's chocolate macadamia cookie was clearly the better choice.  It was not fudgy as I had expected, but instead simply dark chocolatey and peppered with macadamias.  We both agreed that this one was good, but again nothing particularly special.

As soon as the vanilla cheesecake with an almond cookie crumb crust and a strawberry topping was served, it brought me back to the chocolate cake incident of years gone by.  The color, texture, scent; there was nothing seemingly decadent about it.  And, just like the previous visit, the first bite confirmed why: it wasn't.  On a sliding scale where one end is what you'd expect of cheesecake and the other tofu, this cake, unfortunately, erred much closer to the tofu side.  I'm sure there are some people who enjoy healthy tasting desserts, but I am not one of them.  I have acquired a tolerance, but maintain that if you are eating dessert you are looking for decadence.  You will not find it on this plate.

To make matters worse, we were barely halfway through the dessert when the waitress, who had yet to even check on us, unceremoniously plopped the bill down on the table and wordlessly ran away.  VM had to flag her down to request a coffee refill, although she was right on top of us when it came time to retrieve the credit card.  The final affront was when we asked for something to put our leftover cookie in and she flung a brown bag at us. 

Perhaps if I had stumbled into Candle Cafe without the knowledge that it was related to Candle 79 I wouldn't have been so judgmental.  I still would have left unimpressed, but perhaps not as disappointed as I was having just come from Candle 79.  But the fact is, I had. 

  • While the entire atmosphere at C79 is serene, CC is frenetic with its too-close-together tables and, worse, distractingly noisy with the constant and irritating scream of the juicer. 
  • The service at C79 is consistently stellar: the hosts, waitstaff, and definitely the bus-staff is exceedingly more friendly, refined, accomodating, and knowledgable than any I've come across.  Our waitress at CC behaved as though we were in a dive diner.
  • Every plate at C79 is divine; nothing at CC was above mediocre.
I realize you cannot judge a restaurant on the merit of two slices of cake alone, but it is my opinion that Candle Cafe can keep their noisy room and poor service; you'll find us at Candle 79 exclusively.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Candle 79


As excitedly as I vote for them and anxiously await their results, I don’t always agree with the VegNews’ Veggie Awards’ readers’ picks. Too often I’m convinced that people vote merely by reputation and/or name recognition rather than actual experience with or love for the product/establishment.

However, the editors’ picks rarely miss their mark and never has it been more evident than this year with kudos going to Ellen Degeneres (Veg Media Maven of the Year), Daiya cheese (Product of the Year), and Candle 79 (Restaurant of the Year).

Lately I’ve been finding myself downtown more than up, and it’s only been with the addition of Peacefood Café and Café Blossom (now Blossom Uptown) on the UWS that I’ve been making excuses to venture uptown more frequently. This weekend I decided to head towards the UES for a change, and made a reservation for brunch at Candle 79.

It stands repeating that Candle 79 is a beautiful restaurant. The colors are rich but muted, the atmosphere is elegant but welcoming, and it is always spectacularly clean and seemingly just waxed/reupholstered. More importantly, they know that reputation and beauty only go so far and have obviously invested as much in their staff as in their ingredients because both worked to provide an upscale and thoroughly enjoyable meal and experience.

A gentleman with a gorgeous accent took my telephone reservation unhurriedly with the utmost professionalism and precision. Upon arrival, we were greeted warmly and without pretense by the friendly hostess who promptly showed us to our roomy and comfortable booth.

From beginning to end our waitress (thx Christine!) was flawless. Her conversation and service was effortless and spot-on; she set the pace for a relaxed and enjoyable multi-course brunch (what’s brunch without dessert and drinks?). Our requests and customizations were met without the bat of an eyelash and she did not miss one detail.

The bartender graciously delivered all of our delicious drinks with antidotes about the ingredients, the manager non-intrusively confirmed our enjoyment, and the bus staff was exceedingly friendly, polite, and extremely well-timed.

Oh yeah, the food! I enjoyed the absolute best French toast I have had in my almost ten years being vegan. Fluffy, delicious slices of pumpkin-spiced French toast served with cranberry butter, cranberry compote (on the side by request) and maple syrup. This French toast hit the bar my Mom set high with the non-vegan French toast that I enjoyed growing up: both versions sweet concoctions that were neither soggy nor dry, but perfect combinations of crispier crusts with softer insides to balance the absorption of the overabundance of syrup I can’t help but indulge in. Next to this pile of sweet breakfast goodness was a generous portion of scrumptiously smoky tempeh bacon and caramelized bananas.

My vegetarian dining companion enjoyed a Mushroom and Butternut Squash Crepe that was equally incredible on the savory side of things. The crepe was the thinnest, lightest, crepe-iest crepe I’ve come across, sturdily enfolding an abundance of all kinds of deliciousness (in addition to the mushrooms and squash). Accompanying was a ridiculously crisp and fresh salad boasting romaine and beets.

Since we love us some carbs, we also requested a side of their Yukon-gold skillet potatoes and an order of polenta fries. The potatoes were absolutely delicious (was that paprika?) and the fries out of this world: piping hot, crispy on the outside/creamy on the inside, and made only more delicious when paired with the accompanying chipotle ketchup.

Yes, there was room for dessert. Across the table I watched as the simply-named but intricately prepared apple pie was enjoyed. A whole, personal-sized pie in a crispy, flaky phyllo crust overflowing with apples and covered with almond crumble with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream atop. While not my cup of tea (apples, shudder), the ice cream, almonds and shell were as good as I expected.

In front of my own fat face sat two perfect, sugar-dusted cannoli shells filled with cool, smooth, dreamy, vanilla cream, sitting in a delightfully generous pool of chocolate sauce and topped with a scoop of chocolate chip ice cream. Not a fan of traditional, cheesy cannolis in my vegetarian life, I was pleasantly surprised by the whole dessert and enjoyed every crumb.

Finally, I finished off my meal with a cup of what I have long considered to be the best hot chocolate in the city…i.e., the most chocolatey.

Hopefully I have adequately described what I consider to unequivocally rank up there as one of my best overall restaurant experiences (dining company included!). From food to service to atmosphere, Candle 79 did not miss a trick: every single worker in every capacity worked together to create a mood, set a pace, and present a meal that I don’t expect to be rivaled anytime soon.

I’ve been a fan of both Candle Café and Candle 79 for years and years. While I have often been impressed by a meal or a drink, I’d never been blown away by a complete experience in either place. This visit changed all that; Candle 79 seems to have found the magic combination of getting everything right. I will be back soon and often.

* Both Candles now generously offer a 10% discount to Woodstock Farm Sanctuary members.