A Bittersweet Farewell to Goldie's

In mid-September, my new favorite restaurant, Goldie's of Asbury Park, began to advertise a limited-seating, 5-course, chef's bar, fall-tasting dinner.  I didn't think I'd be able to fit it into my schedule, but couldn't stop thinking about their new, yet-to-be-revealed, seasonal menu.  Less than a week later, they began to advertise their fall hours, which got everyone thinking about the highly anticipated fall options.  I was wondering how I could arrange my schedule in order to fit it in when, only nine days after that, the dinner party was being unexpectedly advertised as a farewell.   I knew I had to make it my business to attend and so I reserved a coveted seat.

My excitement put my whole day on overdrive and so I arrived to the neighborhood quite a bit early.  I took a final shot of their golden window as melancholia began to set in.

When I found myself bidding adieu to their succulents I knew I had to at least try to pull myself together..

I took a walk as the sun set.  This is the view of the vacant carousel house in the distance.

And, of course, the nearby pedal boats (if I had my own lake I'd steal that dragon in an instant).

FYI: something is afoot in the bierhalle around the block.

And then finally it was time enough to go in.  Due to my canine companion, I'd only viewed the interior once previously- two days prior when a friend and I had visited for brunch on what I didn't initially realize was their last business day.  It looked even more stunning in the evening light. 

The seating was limited to the meandering bar that spans the length of the space and I had the best seat in the house: right in front of the stove and, therefore, all of the action (alas, no pets indoors!).

The evening kicked off with a complimentary, signature cocktail: lemon sage.  It was both refreshing and crisp, but I unfortunately had to nurse it in anticipation of the drive home; otherwise I would have surely had a few.

The meal began a little later than expected.  There was a palpable hesitation cast over the room, as everyone was aware that once the event was to start, the end was sadly inevitable.  I was lucky enough to have been seated next to an extremely lovely couple, Aurora and Frank, whose kindness and conversation made the evening ever more enjoyable.

The meal started off beautifully with an amuse bouche of smoked figs with herbed cashew chevre and Bartlett pear vinaigrette (spherification).  

 

They were at the same time smoky and sweet; the cheese was enough to turn any reluctant vegetarian vegan.  I'm certain that those who are quick to say they could never give up cheese have never tasted something so decadent.

And then the fun really began.  The first indication of my incredible seat was my enviable view of the choreographed salad plating.

Mache salad with red onion, hazelnut, orange, citronette and warm raisin puree.  It was an exquisite play of tastes, textures, and temperatures.

As if I wasn't already over the moon for Goldie's and the evening's festivities, I positively swooned when this clean fork was promptly placed before me after the salad course was cleared:  Goldie's consistently epitomizing the utmost service and attention to detail right until the end.

Next up was a pear & root vegetable soup with sage, verjus, and poached pear.

Pears are, admittedly, not my thing, but the soup itself was fragrant and extremely satisfying.  I took great care to consume every drop around the fruit, which I left.  Attendees were already remarking what wonderful options these dishes would offer to an autumnal Goldie's menu that wasn't to be.

At this point I could not have told you what I was enjoying most: the impeccable feast, the company, or the view.

 

For the pasta course, pine nut ricotta and lemon thyme ravioli with pesto, roasted baby beets, pistachio and bitter greens.  This dish was my favorite of the evening: every element was a hit- particularly the note-perfect ravioli and the dehydrated beet slice garnish.  Of course, I'm always a sucker for arugula.

The main was a maple sage mushroom tart with butternut squash custard, pecan puree and charred Brussels sprout leaves.

I was blown away by both the heartiness and layers upon layers of individual elements that formed this inventive and amazing entree.  The crust was flaky, the custard divine, mushrooms sweet and succulent.  Paired with the uber-rich puree and the crisp sprout leaves: I should have stopped eating long before my plate was clean, but I just couldn't.

Full disclosure: I was wary of the dessert.  Roasted apple & sweet potato turnover with sweet and sour kraut, sweet potato pie ice cream and dark cherry bourbon compote; so many unusual elements for my chocolate-centric palate to contemplate. 

To start, I don't like apples.  But, I was willing to forgive anything baked into a mini-pie.  Contrarily, the sweet potato filling made perfect sense as I recalled the sweet potato blondie from VCIYCJ.

I managed to block out the idea of the sauerkraut until I saw it being plated and it looked, well, exactly like sauerkraut.  Sweet potato pie ice cream?  Also weird, and I was beginning to wonder if this would wind up being a dish that simply tried too hard to be different.

When the dessert was set before me it looked harmless, albeit huge, and smelled of fall.  The healthy serving on the heels of 5 previous courses gave me new cause for concern, as I have a clean plate reputation to uphold.  On first bite, the ice cream erred on the heavy side and I couldn't reconcile the sweet potato.  The compote was stellar, and I tasted the pie: astounding.  When it was time to add the sauerkraut to the mix I didn't hesitate; I owed the fine folks who had just prepared the preceding, decadent meal a unabashed, trusting dive in.  And, somehow... it all worked together!  While I might never have an opportunity to consume such a combination again, I'm proud to say that I thoroughly enjoyed every bite of every dish (save the poached pear), including this one.  My stomach was stuffed, my taste buds impressed, and my heart warmed by the kindest restaurant staff I've known.

It was a truly successful event on all counts.  And then, just as if it never happened, the stove was still and quiet.

The incredibly talented folks who I'd come to know over the previous months through their precise and praiseworthy food and service gathered to bid us a heartfelt farewell.  My nearest dining companion and I were not the only two to well up.  I will indubitably miss Goldie's and the folks behind it.  Individually and as a team, I thank each and every one of them for making myself and 89 feel stunningly welcome every single time we visited- which was as often as possible for two fans who live an hour away.

As if all they had done during the short tenure of the restaurant and in this single spectacular evening wasn't enough, they sent us home with a parting gift: two divine smelling cookies that I was too full to consume until the next day.

And so my last Goldie's bite turned out to be as flawless as the first and all in between: a soft, chewy, moist chocolate cookie with chocolate chips, sugar, and a hint of heat that hit as an aftertaste and as a reminder that Goldie's is unexpected, enduring, and will hopefully return.

I still don't know what changed in that short period of time between anticipation of the fall menu and the unexpected farewell.  Every time I visited Goldie's they were crowded and the food, staff, and atmosphere were the absolute best I'd come by in a long time and by a mile. I have detected a bit of concern amongst vegans that this was a restaurant not owned and operated by vegans.  But, while I make it my business to support such endeavors, there is nothing wrong with non-vegans dipping their toe in the water; the more the merrier to spread the word- particularly in New Jersey!  Every vegan bite consumed is one less non-vegan bite born out of violence and cruelty.  Not to mention that I can think of a few vegan-owned and operated establishments that could take a lesson or two from Goldie's.

It is so rare to find a restaurant that is able to consistently deliver what Goldie's mastered with finesse and genuine appreciation for its fans.  I don't know what the future holds for the restaurant or its staff, but I feel like it captured lightning in a bottle for a brief moment and I'd like to once again thank them for everything; we do hope to see you very soon. xo AB & 89

Goldie's: Vegan in Asbury Park (beyond the choco taco...but, still... a choco taco)

You might recall how smitten I was with Goldie's after my first visit.  I've been back a few times since and the love affair continues; so, it was only fair to post a proper and more complete review- especially since the seasonal menu is expected to change sometime soon and then I'll be forced (!) to start the whole process again.

Goldies has soups and salads on offer, but I haven't visited yet where I didn't choose the house made chips with tomato/green chile salsa and pistachio-flax guacamole without being stunningly satisfied.

Seasoned and just the right amount of salt, these medium-thick chips make store-bought positively laughable.

The guac is creamy and filling- with just the right amount of crunch lent by the nuts.

Looks unassuming, but the salsa really packs a flavorful and perfectly textured punch.

As for drinks, I haven't made a bad decision yet.  This was a friend's sangria; I don't really like wine so I can't weigh in.

On this visit I again went with the strawberry limonada: strawberry-infused vodka (or tequila) with house made lemonade.  Refreshing and both sweet and tart without being too much of either.

Vegansaurus told me to order the yucca fries with cashew crema and I don't argue with Vegansaurus.  Crisp on the outside with a rich, creamily textured inside; I've never had anything quite like this.  Paired with the light cashew crema, this side dish is rich, rich, rich (the fries are also good dipped in the salsa- shhh!).

The chilaquiles (corn tortillas layered with chiles) onion, tomato, and daiya with grilled wild scallion salsa were totally different than I'd imagined, but really good.  I was for some reason expecting the Chi-Chi's cheese and onion enchiladas of days gone by (I realize that enchiladas are a totally different dish), but this was assembled as a shallow, Mexican lasagna that reminded me more of migas.  Post script: I love the little lime wedges that accompany almost everything on the menu.

The rodrigo (mushroom chorizo tacos) with potato, cashew crema, radish, fresh corn tortillas blew my mind.  For starters, anything that requires nothing more than your hands and mouth to indulge in is right up my alley.  And let's discuss the grilled, corn tortillas.  Goldie's has figured out how to make un-tearable, taco perfection with this trick.  As for the filling- wowza.  I'm not really familiar with chorizo, but the flavor it added mixed with the potatoes (!), cream, and crisp radish was completely ideal.  A must order in my book.

These are the little donkeys (pequeno bean burritos) with jalapeño hot sauce, lime; don't let the simplicity fool you.

The soft, flour tortillas are filled with the creamiest version of "refried" beans I've ever come across.  The heat comes from that seemingly innocuous swirl of jalapeño sauce that, when mixed into the delicious Mexican rice, is both steamy and satisfying.  This might be my favorite dish on the menu.

And, of course, a choco taco: waffle cone shell (looks like a pizzelle to me), spiced nuts, daily sorbet/gelato.  On this day the gelato was olive oil caramel (last time it was sea salt caramel), which sounds unusual, but tasted like good old caramel to me.

Interior:

Guess who wanted a taste…again?

And she got it: ice cream only!  No chocolate for dogs.

After 89 was satiated with her bit of choco taco, she took a nap.

This is how at home you feel at Goldie's!

Here's a groggy shot of us right before we left.

Till next time….

Some street art around the corner on Bangs.

The next time I visited was in the evening: offering a different perspective of Asbury Park and slightly worse food photography.

I chose the drink special: peach iced tea: vodka, white peaches, lemon and black tea.  It was a cross between sweet tea and a Long Island iced tea, both of which I'm partial to- with a subtle peach kick.

My friend ordered the cheese party (shiitake fundido) with charred tomato, daiya, flour tortillas.  I'm still regretting not tasting it; it looked like Mexican, cheese fondue perfection but I was afraid I wouldn't be able to stop at a taste.  He really liked it and our waitress on a later visit told us it's one of her favorites.

The heirloom beans, which were gorgeous and, alas, also not mine.

I ordered the dang quesadilla: squash blossoms, caramelized onion, daiya, corn tortilla, cabbage escabeche (see what they did there?).  First of all, I love me some quesadillas!  A (vegan) quesadilla without (vegan) cheese is like a cheeseless pizza: worthless.  These were terrific: the tortilla was crisp and the fillings mighty in every way.

The cabbage escabeche accompaniment was a terrific variation of kimchi.

Because my (human) dining companion knows what's up, we reserved our choco tacos at the onset of our meal.  They had a blood orange variety, but we chose…caramel!  89 patiently awaited the arrival of her new favorite dessert.

That face went from concerned frown to ice cream smile (she gets that from me)!

Choco Taco perfection once again.

This is what happens when 89 thinks you're not paying attention; that blur is her tongue trying to make a choco taco connection.

Full disclosure: we also ordered the cinnamon sugar doughnuts: chocolate ganache, strawberry habanero sauce. But, not really; let me explain.

When we pre-ordered our choco tacos within seconds of being seated, the manager shared with us that the doughnuts were also a great choice.  I would never argue such a matter, so we agreed amongst ourselves to order them…with the caveat of double choco tacos also just in case.  As it turned out, the doughnuts were so incredible that we didn't really need the choco tacos, but they sure were good anyway.

Double-munchkin size, the cinnamon sugar-coated orbs were served warm atop a shallow pool of amazing strawberry sauce with a hint of habanero zing.  At the time I had no idea, so when I used my spoon to break into the donut, I was rendered ecstatic to see it come out coated in creamy, chocolate ganache.  Another huge Goldie's win.

We'd had another great evening at the beautiful outdoor Goldie's space, although 89 faded as the night wore on...

And eventually flat-out fell asleep at the table.

We also got another glimpse of the beautiful, ethereal interior that evening, but have yet to eat inside!

My most recent visit was…very recent.

I couldn't help but to order the special saltwater taffy martini with vanilla bean, whipped cream vodka, coconut milk, and crushed sea salt.  

Served in a rounded, martini glass reminiscent of vintage champagne glasses, this drink exceeded my wildest expectations.  I hope Goldie's keeps the recipe on hand because I'm going to try to order this one long after it's no longer a special drink for the holiday.

I finally ordered the tamale ringwald (love it!!!): tamale with chopped spinach, roasted garlic, black beans, and chipotle sofrito.  I love to order things like this out: something I would never think (or have the capacity) to make at home.  The sauce was delicious slathered all over both the tamale and the bean accompaniment.  And, fear not about the cilantro; Goldie's is smart enough to use it in it's full-leaf form so that it's easily removable (and still looks purdy in photos).

I may have also had a strawberry margarita: house made infused tequila, triple sec, and lime.  It was good, but the limonada is still my sweet fave!

And then Goldie's was kind enough to send some of those amazing doughnuts to the table.  Thank you so much!

My view of the donut stalker; click here for the view from across the table!

They were as good as I remembered (maybe better) and now I really want to go back yet again before the highly anticipated new seasonal menu: what a conundrum!

Alas, no choco taco for 89 this time!

It was a beautiful day in Asbury (until it rained), so we took the pooches for a nice long stroll through town and along the boardwalk.

I could not be more impressed with Goldie's; they are consistently inventive without being pretentious,  friendly without an iota of exclusion, and wholly welcoming to humans and pooches alike.

They've hit every note of dining perfection and I wish them continued success.  As for me, I'll keep doing my part!