Saturday, October 11, 2014

A Bittersweet Farewell to Goldie's

In mid-September, my new favorite restaurant, Goldie's of Asbury Park, began to advertise a limited-seating, 5-course, chef's bar, fall-tasting dinner.  I didn't think I'd be able to fit it into my schedule, but couldn't stop thinking about their new, yet-to-be-revealed, seasonal menu.  Less than a week later, they began to advertise their fall hours, which got everyone thinking about the highly anticipated fall options.  I was wondering how I could arrange my schedule in order to fit it in when, only nine days after that, the dinner party was being unexpectedly advertised as a farewell.   I knew I had to make it my business to attend and so I reserved a coveted seat.

My excitement put my whole day on overdrive and so I arrived to the neighborhood quite a bit early.  I took a final shot of their golden window as melancholia began to set in.

When I found myself bidding adieu to their succulents I knew I had to at least try to pull myself together..

I took a walk as the sun set.  This is the view of the vacant carousel house in the distance.

And, of course, the nearby pedal boats (if I had my own lake I'd steal that dragon in an instant).

FYI: something is afoot in the bierhalle around the block.

And then finally it was time enough to go in.  Due to my canine companion, I'd only viewed the interior once previously- two days prior when a friend and I had visited for brunch on what I didn't initially realize was their last business day.  It looked even more stunning in the evening light. 

The seating was limited to the meandering bar that spans the length of the space and I had the best seat in the house: right in front of the stove and, therefore, all of the action (alas, no pets indoors!).

The evening kicked off with a complimentary, signature cocktail: lemon sage.  It was both refreshing and crisp, but I unfortunately had to nurse it in anticipation of the drive home; otherwise I would have surely had a few.

The meal began a little later than expected.  There was a palpable hesitation cast over the room, as everyone was aware that once the event was to start, the end was sadly inevitable.  I was lucky enough to have been seated next to an extremely lovely couple, Aurora and Frank, whose kindness and conversation made the evening ever more enjoyable.

The meal started off beautifully with an amuse bouche of smoked figs with herbed cashew chevre and Bartlett pear vinaigrette (spherification).  


They were at the same time smoky and sweet; the cheese was enough to turn any reluctant vegetarian vegan.  I'm certain that those who are quick to say they could never give up cheese have never tasted something so decadent.

And then the fun really began.  The first indication of my incredible seat was my enviable view of the choreographed salad plating.

Mache salad with red onion, hazelnut, orange, citronette and warm raisin puree.  It was an exquisite play of tastes, textures, and temperatures.

As if I wasn't already over the moon for Goldie's and the evening's festivities, I positively swooned when this clean fork was promptly placed before me after the salad course was cleared:  Goldie's consistently epitomizing the utmost service and attention to detail right until the end.

Next up was a pear & root vegetable soup with sage, verjus, and poached pear.

Pears are, admittedly, not my thing, but the soup itself was fragrant and extremely satisfying.  I took great care to consume every drop around the fruit, which I left.  Attendees were already remarking what wonderful options these dishes would offer to an autumnal Goldie's menu that wasn't to be.

At this point I could not have told you what I was enjoying most: the impeccable feast, the company, or the view.


For the pasta course, pine nut ricotta and lemon thyme ravioli with pesto, roasted baby beets, pistachio and bitter greens.  This dish was my favorite of the evening: every element was a hit- particularly the note-perfect ravioli and the dehydrated beet slice garnish.  Of course, I'm always a sucker for arugula.

The main was a maple sage mushroom tart with butternut squash custard, pecan puree and charred Brussels sprout leaves.

I was blown away by both the heartiness and layers upon layers of individual elements that formed this inventive and amazing entree.  The crust was flaky, the custard divine, mushrooms sweet and succulent.  Paired with the uber-rich puree and the crisp sprout leaves: I should have stopped eating long before my plate was clean, but I just couldn't.

Full disclosure: I was wary of the dessert.  Roasted apple & sweet potato turnover with sweet and sour kraut, sweet potato pie ice cream and dark cherry bourbon compote; so many unusual elements for my chocolate-centric palate to contemplate. 

To start, I don't like apples.  But, I was willing to forgive anything baked into a mini-pie.  Contrarily, the sweet potato filling made perfect sense as I recalled the sweet potato blondie from VCIYCJ.

I managed to block out the idea of the sauerkraut until I saw it being plated and it looked, well, exactly like sauerkraut.  Sweet potato pie ice cream?  Also weird, and I was beginning to wonder if this would wind up being a dish that simply tried too hard to be different.

When the dessert was set before me it looked harmless, albeit huge, and smelled of fall.  The healthy serving on the heels of 5 previous courses gave me new cause for concern, as I have a clean plate reputation to uphold.  On first bite, the ice cream erred on the heavy side and I couldn't reconcile the sweet potato.  The compote was stellar, and I tasted the pie: astounding.  When it was time to add the sauerkraut to the mix I didn't hesitate; I owed the fine folks who had just prepared the preceding, decadent meal a unabashed, trusting dive in.  And, somehow... it all worked together!  While I might never have an opportunity to consume such a combination again, I'm proud to say that I thoroughly enjoyed every bite of every dish (save the poached pear), including this one.  My stomach was stuffed, my taste buds impressed, and my heart warmed by the kindest restaurant staff I've known.

It was a truly successful event on all counts.  And then, just as if it never happened, the stove was still and quiet.

The incredibly talented folks who I'd come to know over the previous months through their precise and praiseworthy food and service gathered to bid us a heartfelt farewell.  My nearest dining companion and I were not the only two to well up.  I will indubitably miss Goldie's and the folks behind it.  Individually and as a team, I thank each and every one of them for making myself and 89 feel stunningly welcome every single time we visited- which was as often as possible for two fans who live an hour away.

As if all they had done during the short tenure of the restaurant and in this single spectacular evening wasn't enough, they sent us home with a parting gift: two divine smelling cookies that I was too full to consume until the next day.

And so my last Goldie's bite turned out to be as flawless as the first and all in between: a soft, chewy, moist chocolate cookie with chocolate chips, sugar, and a hint of heat that hit as an aftertaste and as a reminder that Goldie's is unexpected, enduring, and will hopefully return.

I still don't know what changed in that short period of time between anticipation of the fall menu and the unexpected farewell.  Every time I visited Goldie's they were crowded and the food, staff, and atmosphere were the absolute best I'd come by in a long time and by a mile. I have detected a bit of concern amongst vegans that this was a restaurant not owned and operated by vegans.  But, while I make it my business to support such endeavors, there is nothing wrong with non-vegans dipping their toe in the water; the more the merrier to spread the word- particularly in New Jersey!  Every vegan bite consumed is one less non-vegan bite born out of violence and cruelty.  Not to mention that I can think of a few vegan-owned and operated establishments that could take a lesson or two from Goldie's.

It is so rare to find a restaurant that is able to consistently deliver what Goldie's mastered with finesse and genuine appreciation for its fans.  I don't know what the future holds for the restaurant or its staff, but I feel like it captured lightning in a bottle for a brief moment and I'd like to once again thank them for everything; we do hope to see you very soon. xo AB & 89


  1. So bizarre that it closed! Glad you got to enjoy it as much as you did, though.
    Quite a dessert. I hope they re-open somewhere closer to meeeee soon!

  2. I am sad about Goldie's end! Such creative, lovely eats. But, your editorial is elegantly written (that might be the English teacher in me coming out...). I think you should have a newspaper column!

    1. Thanks, Ingrid! I hope I successfully imparted even a sliver of my gratitude.

  3. I think you gave them the best elegy you could in your post. What a beautiful write up for a beautiful meal.

    1. Thank you, Joey. I have high expectations- particularly for upscale establishments. Goldie's is extremely deserving of my praise.

  4. If their closing has anything to do with non vegans running a vegan restaurant that stinks. I'm all about spreading the word! Very nice (but sad) closing post.

  5. Dagnabbit! None of my posts show up here! I tried eight ways to Sunday to comment here. What am I doing wrong???


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